Calamocha, Teruel

The start of the path among walnut trees and crop fields

Calamocha (Teruel) has always been a great crossroads. Here settled Romans and Arabs, merchants and conquerors, multinationals and entrepreneurs, both for its geostrategic value and for the wealth of its rivers and landscapes. To walk its trails is to understand its history and connect with a vibrant future, where the towns of the famous “Spanish Lapland” are reborn thanks to the northwesterly winds, the altitude, and a dry atmosphere that allows us to enjoy the famous Teruel ham (D.O.). Along 12 kilometers, from Calamocha to Poyo del Cid, we can see all the potential it has to welcome back restless and curious travelers, lovers of good food and wide open landscapes.

The trail begins after passing the 16th-century Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, built on the site of an ancient medieval castle and magnificent tower. Cross the medieval bridge of Roman origin and pass in front of the old copper hammer mill and wool wash house. The Roman bridge dates back to the first century and tells the story of the Via Augusta, the road connecting Zaragoza with Jaén. The copper hammer mill was started up by a French merchant back in 1689, who recognized the power of the river as a basic resource for working the bronze from nearby mines. The same was true for the wool wash house that would help lighten the weight of the wool brought from the Sierra de Albarracín towards the trade routes, now clean and without extra weight, that crossed the Peninsula.

All these elements speak of the importance of this same path throughout the region of the Jiloca River. We walk among walnut trees, vast crop fields, and autumn light that brings out the explosion of ochre colors. Hues that will accompany us during these six hours of a pleasant walk.

A privileged land for growing crops that captivate the palate

Today silence prevails along the entire path, with the echo of these stories. A silence broken at times by the wind, accompanied by the singing of hundreds of birds sheltering in every tree along the way and the warm greetings of people walking through the different villages that dot the route, such as Poyo del Cid and Fuentes Claras, Caminreal… And we will almost see more tractors in motion than people. Of course, from time to time, a group of cyclists will pass us at high speed, and the murmur of the Jiloca River will always serve as our compass.

A mandatory stop to pay tribute to Díaz de Vivar

After 5 kilometers, you will reach Poyo del Cid, where the nature trail of the old railway that connected Santander with the Mediterranean can also be taken. A hill stands out in the plains of crop fields. And on that hill, Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, or Cid Campeador, the famous medieval knight of the 11th century, decided to camp; we now walk along a path that pays tribute to his life from Burgos to Alicante through eight provinces and seven sections.

El Cid took that hill as his headquarters along with more than 7,000 men, as mentioned in the Song of El Cid, the great work of medieval literature that, between fiction and reality, recounts the life of this nobleman, a mercenary who experienced both glory and the hardship of exile. Today, a stone figure commemorates his presence in the area; the town itself is nestled at the foot of the same hill, as if seeking shelter from the cold northwest winds that whip across this plain.

Land of ham, of saffron … and of cranes

At this point we return to Calamocha again. The route along the Camino del Cid, the return on the nature trail, and now, a recreation of those views with the palate: Jiloca saffron, Teruel ham, and other flavors typical of Monreal, Caminreal, Calamocha, and the entire region.

However, many continue on to Monreal del Campo, completing a six-hour route in a straight line. But to make your visit to the area complete, the next day it is worth taking a leisurely trip to the Laguna de Gallocanta, a sanctuary for thousands of migratory birds, including cranes. An internationally renowned spot for birdwatching and the most important and best-preserved salt marsh in Europe.

Must-sees in Calamocha and its region

• August 16: San Roque. In Calamocha, not only is this "celebrated"; a promise is fulfilled. Since 1886, about 200 couples (in white and blue sashes) accompany the saint dancing from Santa María la Mayor to the hermitage. And when someone wants to recite a "saying", the stick is raised and everyone falls silent. A tradition that has been declared a Festival of Tourist Interest of Aragon (2012).
• Pilgrimages and Holy Week: a week of silence where the sound of trumpets and drums can be appreciated.
• Summer festivals in the neighborhoods of Santo Cristo, Santa Orosia, Pollo del Cid, and Calamocha.
• September 6, Patron Saint's Day in Monreal del Campo.